Sambal

Sambal is a sweet and intensely sour garlic sauce that originates in southeast Asia. I was first introduced to the sauce in Emilie Hardman's eye-opening "Creative Vegan Cooking" class at Cambridge Center for Adult Education. To turn this sauce back to a vegan item, substitute nori and salt for the fish sauce.

Green jalapeños result in a brilliant burgundy sauce. Red ones produce a color similar to chiles in adobo. 2 jalapeños seems fairly temperate; I'd recommend more (or stronger) peppers for the spice-inclined.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 shallots, peeled
  
• 3 jalapeños, trimmed of stems
  
• 6 cloves garlic, crushed
  
• 2 tbsp. concentrated tamarind paste
• 2 tbsp. sugar
• 1 tbsp. sesame oil
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
  
• 2 tbsp. fish sauce (or half a tin of anchovies)

DIRECTIONS:

1. Combine all ingredients in a food processor; process for at least one minute or until smooth.
   
2. Transfer sauce to a deep skillet and cook over medium-high heat until simmering.
   

Dill potato salad

This is an update on the spicy mustard potato salad, and I think this time I got it where I want to be. The sauce on these is a lively shade of spring green, so garnish with red onion rings and whole dill.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3-4 lbs red potatoes
• 1/2 medium red onion, finely diced
• 3/4 cup coarsely ground mustard
• 1/2 cup spicy brown mustard
• 1 bunch dill, stems removed (divided use)
• 1 shallot, peeled
• 1/3 cup cider vinegar
• 1/4 cup olive oil

DIRECTIONS:

1. Boil the potatoes, skin-on, until tender but not too soft, about 20 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.
   
2. Cut the potatoes into 3/4" cubes and place in a mixing bowl with the onions. Set aside.
   
3. Put the mustards, oil, vinegar, shallot and half the dill into a food processor. Puree until quite smooth.
4. A little at a time, gently mix the dressing into the potatoes, tasting as you go, until the desired intensity is reached.
5. Transfer to a serving dish, garnishing with the remainder of the dill.

Best if served at room temperature.

Tofu vaVohu

At last, a stew that does justice to the namesake of this site. Dark and profound, this sweet stew has its roots in Korean braised beef and ma po tofu. I am quite pleased with it.

The peppers provide an important flavor dimension, so if you're averse to spice, replace the 6 jalapeños with 3 poblanos. The jalapeño version is surprisingly moderate, however.

Notes: I tried cutting the peppers thin and adding them directly rather than roasting them separately; this turned out poorly. Chopped up steak, particularly cuts that tenderize well in stews, is better than hamburger. Chop in a food processor or slice into small pieces as preferred. You can replace up to 1/4 cup rice vinegar with lemon juice (1 lemon = 1/4 cup vinegar); in this case, add more sugar to offset the additional acidity.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 lbs. soft tofu, cut into 3/4" cubes
  
• 3/4 lb eggplant (1 large), cut into 1" cubes
  
• 1/2 lb ground beef
  
• 6 whole jalapeños (or 3 whole poblanos)
• 2 packages (10 oz. each) crimini mushrooms, cleaned and quartered
• 1 cup reduced-sodium tamari
• 1/2 cup rice vinegar
• 1/2 cup light brown sugar
• 2 tbsp. cornstarch

DIRECTIONS:

1. Broil the peppers on high for 6-8 minutes, turning once.
   
2. Combine rice vinegar, tamari and brown sugar in a small bowl and set aside.
   
3. Combine tofu, beef, eggplant and mushrooms in a stew pot. Bury the peppers in the mixture. Pour vinegar mixture over these ingredients.
   
4. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Simmer covered for an hour, stirring every ten minutes until liquid covers all the vegetables.
5. Remove several tablespoons of liquid in a cup. Add one tablespoon cold water, then combine with corn starch. Quickly stir this mixture back into the stew.

Garnish with grated carrots or beets. Serve with steamed bok choy and brown ale.

Cauliflower Florets in Sambal

Update 6/2/09: As I've been discovering other uses for sambal, I've decided to spin the sauce out to its own post.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 large head cauliflower, cored, washed and broken into florets
• 1 batch sambal

DIRECTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 500º F.
2. Arrange the cauliflower in a casserole or glass dish; bake for 30 minutes, stirring twice.
3. Combine the cauliflower and the sauce in a saucepan over medium heat, and cooking for several minutes, stirring frequently to cover.
   

Serve with rice.

Bacalao and Eggplant Stew

I had tried this concept once before, using a Nigerian fish stew recipe as a base. I didn't like the way that turned out, and I despaired of how to pull this off until I took Emilie Hardman's "Creative Vegan Cuisine" class at the Cambridge Center for Adult Education. There she made an eggplant and tofu stew with a tomato base. I decided to use that as a launching point for this summery meal.

1 jalapeño is quite mild. 2 is right around medium. Adjust to taste.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. bacalao, soaked overnight in three changes of ice water
• 2 zucchinis, cut into 3/4" cubes
• 1 lb. eggplant, cut into 3/4" cubes
• 1 large red onion, diced
  
• 1 28 oz. can diced tomatoes
• 6 cloves garlic, crushed
  
• 2 jalapeño peppers, seeds removed and finely minced
• 2 tbsp. fish sauce
• 1/3 cup water
  
• 2 tbsp. minced ginger
• 2 tbsp. cider vinegar
• 3 tbsp. lime juice
• 2 tbsp. olive oil
  
• 1 1/2 tbsp. tomato paste
• 1 tbsp. honey

DIRECTIONS:

1. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add the diced onion and sauté until soft, about 3-4 minutes.
2. Add the garlic, jalapeño and ginger. Sauté another 3-4 minutes or until soft.
3. Add the eggplant and zucchini and sauté until the eggplant begins to soften.
4. Add all ingredients except for fish. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes.
5. Meanwhile, dry the bacalao thoroughly with paper towels. Broil on high heat for about 4-6 minutes or until just done.
6. Add the bacalao to the stew. Turn heat to low and allow to cook for 2 minutes more.

Serve immediately with rice or quinoa.

Deviled Eggs

If you must serve boiled eggs, you might as well make them interesting. (Why anyone would serve boiled eggs outside of a religious ritual is entirely beyond me.)

Since aioli contains raw egg yolk, it is important to serve the deviled eggs on the same day that you make the aioli and make sure that you keep the eggs refrigerated until ready to serve.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 dozen eggs
• 3 tbsp. horseradish aioli (see below)
• 1 tbsp. spicy mustard
  
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice
• 3 tbsp. chopped fresh parsely
• Salt to taste

DIRECTIONS:

1. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. To this, add all of the eggs and allow to steep for 13 minutes. Remove from hot water and immediately steep in ice water for several minutes.
2. Remove the shells, being careful not to damage the egg in the process.
3. With a sharp knife, cut each egg in half. Remove the hard-boiled yolk to a bowl; reserve the whites.
4. Combine the yolks with all remaining ingredients, pressing down with the back of a fork.
5. Put the filling into a resealable bag. Cut one corner off the bag at a 30 degree angle, creating an aperture a little narrower than the yolk-sized hole in an egg white.
6. Squeeze filling from bag into each egg with a circular motion. Smooth gently if necessary.

Sprinkle with paprika and garnish with additional parsely. Serve on the same day.

Spicy Mustard Potato Salad

I am still tweaking this recipe to get it where I want it to be, but it's already pretty good. Feedback is certainly welcome as I attempt to create a zingy, spicy, German-style potato salad. The intense, warm zest of the whole-grain mustard is the dominant flavor, with the brown mustard mainly serving to coat the potato pieces, so that no part of the salad is left untouched by the mustard.

Note that whole-grain mustard (with the mustardseeds intact) requires much more volume for the same amount of flavor and coverage. If you're using anything else, make much less dressing.

If prepared without bacon, this dish can be kosher parve. (For those at my family hannukah party now reading this--don't worry, the version I served was parve!)

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 oz. bacon --OR-- 3 tbsp. olive oil
  
• 3-4 lbs. red potatoes
• 1/2 red onion, finely chopped
• 2/3 cup whole-grain mustard
  
• 1/4 cup spicy brown mustard (such as Goulden's)
• 1 tbsp. ground mustardseed
• 1/3 cup cider vinegar
• 1 bunch of fresh dill, finely chopped
  
• 1 tbsp. freshly grated horseradish

DIRECTIONS:

1. Boil enough water to cover potatoes. Add potatoes to boiling water and allow to cook for 20-25 minutes or until tender.
2. Meanwhile, if you are using bacon, cook the bacon in a griddle until somewhat crispy. Set aside, reserving the grease.
3. Once the potatoes are done cooking, cut them into 3/4" cubes.
4. Combine mustards, horseradish, vinegar and oil or grease in a bowl and combine well. Do not puree.
   
5. Put potatoes in a bowl. Crumble the bacon onto the potatoes, along with half the dill. Add the onions and dressing and gently combine.
6. Garnish with remaining dill.
   

Serve warm.

Pasta with sweet beef sauce and yogurt sauce

The inspiration for using a cumin-based sweet beef sauce with a yogurt sauce came from the Afghani pumpkin dish, 'kaddo.' (Eventually, I'm going to get around to making that.) The beef sauce is sweet and spicy, while the yogurt sauce is sour and rich, and the interplay is unique and enjoyable. I'm not sure if this dish is for everyone; I'd be interested to get feedback on it before I serve it to a group.

The yogurt sauce is also great on its own with macaroni or tortellini.

INGREDIENTS:

Pasta and beef sauce:

• 1 lb. ground beef or lamb
  
• 1 lb. frozen or fresh okra, cut or whole
• 1 large can (about 1.5 lbs) chick peas, drained and washed
• 1 large onion, chopped
  
• 1 lb. penne pasta
  
• 1 tbsp. cumin
• 1 tbsp. chopped garlic
  
• 1 tsp. ground mustard seed
• 2 tbsp. molasses
• 1 tbsp. cinnamon
• cayenne pepper
• 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar

Yogurt sauce:

• 1 lb (1/2 carton) non-fat yogurt
• 2 tbsp. chopped garlic
• 1/2 cup ground Parmesan
  
• 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 head fresh dill, finely chopped
  
• Lots of fresh black pepper

RECIPE:

1. Cook the pasta and set aside.
2. While the pasta is cooking, combine all ingredients for yogurt sauce in a bowl and set aside.
   
3. Heat some olive oil in a saucepan. Add onions once very hot; sauté until golden.
4. Add the garlic, beef and spices; sauté the mixture over high heat until meat is browned.
5. Add the okra, garbanzos, vinegar and molasses; sauté another couple of minutes.
6. Reduce heat to low; simmer, covered, for another 5 minutes.
7. Stir in pasta.

Serve the pasta with the yogurt sauce. I usually serve the hot pasta with the cold yogurt sauce, but you may prefer to gently warm the yogurt sauce in a small saucepan. I wouldn't get it too hot, though.

PAIRINGS:

Use a full-bodied red, but make sure that it isn't too acidic. Acidity tends to play poorly off of cumin dishes, especially when they are spicy.