Dill potato salad

This is an update on the spicy mustard potato salad, and I think this time I got it where I want to be. The sauce on these is a lively shade of spring green, so garnish with red onion rings and whole dill.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3-4 lbs red potatoes
• 1/2 medium red onion, finely diced
• 3/4 cup coarsely ground mustard
• 1/2 cup spicy brown mustard
• 1 bunch dill, stems removed (divided use)
• 1 shallot, peeled
• 1/3 cup cider vinegar
• 1/4 cup olive oil

DIRECTIONS:

1. Boil the potatoes, skin-on, until tender but not too soft, about 20 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.
   
2. Cut the potatoes into 3/4" cubes and place in a mixing bowl with the onions. Set aside.
   
3. Put the mustards, oil, vinegar, shallot and half the dill into a food processor. Puree until quite smooth.
4. A little at a time, gently mix the dressing into the potatoes, tasting as you go, until the desired intensity is reached.
5. Transfer to a serving dish, garnishing with the remainder of the dill.

Best if served at room temperature.

Sweet potato latkes revisited

I wish I had written down what I did for my sweet potato latkes, as they were a smashing success this year. Alas, I failed to do it at the time, so the best I can do is try to remember a few points about what worked.

• Use olive oil. It tasted immeasurably better than the canola stuff you usually get. Light olive oil is available in big jugs on the cheap (I got a 38 oz monster for $10.99) and that's more than enough to get you through a lot of latkes. Note that olive oil has a lower smoke point than canola oil, so watch the heat or you'll be scrubbing.
• Use one egg and at least three tbsp. flour for every pound of sweet potatoes. You may need even more flour than that. I found that with this much egg and flour kicking around, I didn't have nearly as much trouble getting them to hold together.
• Sweet potatoes don't cast off nearly as much water as regular potatoes do, but they are also less starchy and therefore don't want to stick together.
• Lots of onion. Maybe one medium onion for every 1.5-2 sweet potatoes.I was hesitant to use a lot of onion at first--they're sweet potatoes, after all!--but they really added a fantastic dimension that played right off the olive oil in spectacular fashion. With less onion, the taste was a bit sweet and insipid.
• Careful with the salt. I used the guidelines for normal latkes (about 1/2 tsp. per pound) and it seemed like a lot.

I can't remember if I used any baking soda in the sweets. Too bad; otherwise I'd write up a guestimate of the recipe.

I'm very interested in shredding one beet and tossing that in with the sweet potatoes next year. It would add a lot of pizazz.

Tom Kha Gai (Chicken Coconut Soup)

The following soup tastes very good, but I haven't nailed down that of the sweet, delicate aromatic Thai coconut soup called Tom Kha Gai.

One glaring difference from the traditional recipe, of course, is the vastly different composition and quantity of bulk vegetables that I use here. That's because Tom Kha Gai is typically served as a soup appetizer, and I wanted to prepare it to stand on its own as a meal. But that shouldn't affect the broth.

Another possibility is that I make some 'convenience' substitutions such as using anchovy paste instead of fish sauce (which is made from fermented anchovies). I do this both because I don't like to buy lots of exotic condiments, and because I want to be able to make it 'kosher enough.' (See below.)

Still, I think it should be possible to get very close without those kinds of things. If anyone has a recipe for Tom Kha Gai that really replicates the authentic Thai flavors, I'd love to hear about it.

KASHRUS: I have not listed this recipe as 'kosher meat' because it uses anchovy paste (fish) in a dish with chicken. Some people consider the use of fish and meat together to be unhalakhic, although strictly speaking I don't think anyone considers it tref.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 cups chicken broth
• 1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken
• 2 lbs. red potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4" pieces
  
• 2 lbs. carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4" pieces
• 3 bay leaves
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
  
• 3 tbsp. minced ginger
• 1/3 cup lemon juice
• 1 tsp. anchovy paste
• 1 can (14 oz.) coconut milk (I used light)
• 2 tsp. sesame oil
• Oil for sautéing
• Corn starch for desired consistency (I used about 3 tbsp.)
  
• Tamari (or regular soy sauce) to taste
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Heat oil in a pot. Sauté chicken over medium high heat until browned on both sides, about 2-3 minutes. The chicken should still be mostly raw.
2. Remove the chicken to a cutting board and cut into narrow strips.
3. Combine all ingredients except cornstarch and tamari in the pot; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer, covered, for 45 minutes.
4. Mix 2 tbsp. cornstarch into a small amount of cold water so that it forms a paste. Make sure no lumps exist. Combine the cornstarch with the broth and allow to simmer for a couple of minutes. Repeat until desired consistency is reached.
5. Add tamari to taste.

Cholent

On the Jewish sabbath, it is not permitted to create or adjust a fire. This has been extended to all heat sources, making it essential to create foods that can keep cooking all through the sabbath day. Cholent is a sabbath stew so tightly bound to the old-world weekly sabbath rituals that one might reasonably call it a ritual of its own. My version uses a hell of a lot more onions than would typically be found because, hey, onions are fantastic.

Since you are blasting the meat for so incredibly long, it's especially important to use a rich, marbled cut that won't dry out as you cook it. With beef, I prefer flanken (also known as 'boneless short ribs'), but you could also use brisket. Lamb would work very nicely!

Based on impressions from this beautiful essay on cholent.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 medium Spanish onions (about 1.5 - 2 lbs), sliced
  
• 10 oz. Crimini or Baby Bella mushrooms, scrubbed and sliced
• 4-6 whole cloves of garlic, peeled
  
• 1 1/4 cup dry beans (any), rinsed and soaked overnight
• 3/4 cup pearl barley
• 1 1/2 lbs. red bliss potatoes, skin on, cut into large chunks
• 3-4 carrots, washed and cut into large chunks
• 6 cups chicken broth
• 2 lbs. beef brisket or flanken (boneless short rib)
• 1 tbsp. sugar
• 2 tbsp. paprika
• Salt and pepper
• Several whole raw eggs (optional), rinsed
  
• Olive oil for sautéing
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Heat a large skillet to medium-high heat. Once hot, add olive oil and allow to warm.
2. Add the onions and mushrooms along with the sugar. Sauté, turning frequently with a spatula, until beginning to caramelize: about 25-30 minutes.
3. Add the whole garlic cloves and continue to sauté about 5 minutes more. (The garlic will still be white.)
4. In a crockpot, thoroughly combine the caramelized vegetables, the beans, barley, carrots, potatoes and paprika.
   
5. Bury the beef in this mixture.
6. If you have room in the crockpot, bury some eggs in the mixture at this point as well. The egg white will turn an incredible caramel color.
7. Cook in the crock pot on low for a minimum of 8 hours, and as many as 18.

Serve at any time after the first 8 hours. Since you can't shut off the heat on shabbos, it's not uncommon to see people start eating the cholent after 8 or 12 hours, and then again several hours later.

PAIRINGS: I know that beef and beans and barley all fairly scream out 'red wine' (or dark beer), but I find that the entire dish has a sufficiently dark and brooding character that I really crave something a little bit sweet and fruity. Sweet white wines like Gewürztraminer and Riesling come easily to mind, or even a tawny port. A hard cider would also do the job.

Traditionally, people drink hard liquor (often scotch and vodka) on shabbos, although I've never been too crazy for that.

Gahntze Tzimmes

Tzimmes, a sweet, heavy, root vegetable side dish, is made gahntz--whole, full--when cooked with beef or chicken. It is served at most holidays, especially Passover, when the high fiber content is particularly welcome. This New England adaptation makes use of one of our most beloved local vegetables: the butternut squash.

If you happen to dislike slow cookers (but why?), you could prepare this the old-fashioned way by blasting it in a 400 degree oven for an hour, and then turning it down to 300 and blasting it for 4-5 hours more. (Yeah, I'll take the slow cooker.)

Obviously, this thoroughly Yiddish dish can be prepared kosher (fleishig).

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 small (2 - 2 1/2 lb) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced
  
• 1 1/2 lbs sweet potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1 lb. carrots, peeled and sliced (or baby carrots)
• 2 lbs. flanken or brisket, chopped into pieces (or cut the meat off 4 lbs. of short ribs)
• 1 lb. dried fruit (usually prunes and apricots)
• 1 cup orange juice
• 2 tbsp. brown sugar
• 2 tbsp. flour
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice
• Several cups boiling water
  
• Ground cloves
• Ground nutmeg
• Ground allspice
• A dash of ginger (optional)
  

DIRECTIONS (LAZY):

1. Put the beef, carrots, squash, potatoes and dried fruit in the slow cooker.
2. Combine the brown sugar, flour and spices. Add some of the boiling water so it all dissolves.
3. Pour this over the tzimmes. Pour enough boiling water in that it's near the top of the tzimmes. Turn heat to low and let cook for 8-10 hours.

DIRECTIONS (AMBITIOUS):

1. Preheat the oven to 400.
   
2. Place the vegetables and dried fruit at the bottom of a casserole and combine.
   
3. Brown the beef in a deep skillet, then place on top of fruit and vegetables.
   
4. Add the orange juice to the skillet and deglaze with a spatula. Transfer to a bowl and whisk in brown sugar, flour and spices.
5. Pour over tzimmes. Pour enough boiling water in that it's near the top of the tzimmes.
6. Bake, covered, at 400 for an hour.
7. Reduce heat to 300 and bake for another 4-5 hours.

Serve hot. Even better left over.

Shepherd's Pie

This is one of my favorite comfort foods, and it's very easy if you have leftover potato knish filling (or any mashed potatoes, really). I find that the knish filling really made a perfect topping for the shepherd's pie.

The potato knish filling is essentially just mashed potatoes prepared a particular way, and I don't feel like writing it again, so I refer you to that recipe.

If prepared appropriately, this recipe can be kosher (fleishig).

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 cups potato knish filling (see below)
  
• 1 lb. green peas, fresh or frozen
• 1 lb. lean ground beef
• 2 tbsp. brown mustard
• 3 tbsp. ketchup
• 1 tbsp. molasses
• Worcestershire sauce
• Yolk of one egg

RECIPE:

1. Preheat oven to 425.
   
2. If peas are frozen, defrost in the microwave.
3. Crumble and brown the beef in a frying pan, stirring frequently.
4. When the beef is brown on the outside, add the mustard, ketchup, molasses, and Worcestershire sauce to taste. Cook for another minute or so.
   
5. Transfer beef mixture to a casserole dish.
6. Top beef with peas.
   
7. Spread knish filling evenly over the peas using a spatula.
8. Beat the egg yolk together with some more worcestershire sauce or some water; brush onto top of pie.
9. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until the top is somewhat crisp and the egg mixture has turned golden brown.

Serve warm with a green salad.

PAIRINGS: Goes well with a bitter stout such as Guinness.

Kreplach (pierogi)

Update (02/02/08): What started out as a disappointing knish experiment turned into a startlingly excellent kreplach experiment. The dough is essentially a schmaltzy egg pasta: too dry to be baked, but perfect for boiling. Fortunately, I had half a batch left uncooked in my freezer to try this experiment out on.

These are more like pierogi that I've had in that the dough is thicker and eggier than most kreplach, which have an almost translucent, angelic quality. They are delicious by themselves with mustard or goat cheese, and I am sure they would also make an outstanding contribution to chicken soup.

I still haven't figured out how to make knishes, alas.

INGREDIENTS -- DOUGH:

• 3 medium eggs, beaten
  
• 2 tbsp. schmaltz
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• About 1 1/2 cups flour (see instructions below)
• An extra egg yolk (for glazing)
  

INGREDIENTS -- FILLING:

• 3 lbs. russet potatoes
• 1 lb. onions, thinly sliced
  
• 1 tbsp. chopped garlic
• 8 oz. sliced mushrooms
• 3 tbsp. schmaltz
• 1 medium egg, beaten
  
• Salt and pepper

OVERALL STRATEGY:

Slice the potatoes ahead of time. Bring some water to a boil while working on the first steps of the dough. Throw the potatoes in while you're doing that. Then you can prepare the onions and mushrooms. While they are still in their early stages of sauteeing, mash the potatoes and add the egg (while stirring onions occasionally). That way, it's all ready to be combined when the onions are done. After you've done that, get to work rolling out the dough. Finally, boil as much as you'd like to eat now and freeze the rest for later.

DIRECTIONS -- DOUGH:

1. Beat the eggs together with the schmaltz, salt and baking soda.
2. In a mixing bowl, add about 3/4 cup of flour and combine thoroughly with a spatula. This will have a sticky, pasty consistency.
3. Add more flour a very little bit at a time--2 tablespoons at most--mixing very thoroughly, just until the dough is no longer sticky. You will have to use your hands after it starts to thicken up.
4. Knead until it's a totally even, dense ball of dough. Cover the mixing bowl and let stand for about 45 minutes (about the time it will take to make the filling).
   

DIRECTIONS -- FILLING:

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Slice the potatoes into 3/4"-thick rounds but do not peel them. Boil them to desired consistency.
2. Meanwhile, heat the schmaltz in a saucepan. (WARNING: schmaltz burns faster than vegetable oil.) When the schmaltz is hot, add the mushrooms and onions.
3. Sauté the onions and mushrooms on medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until they begin to turn gold.
4. Add the garlic and continue to cook until the onions caramelize, stirring constantly.
5. Mash the potatoes and stir in the egg thoroughly. Add a bit more schmaltz if it's not smooth.
6. Once the onions and mushrooms are ready, add them to the potatoes. Season with plenty of salt and pepper.

ASSEMBLING YOUR KREPLACH:

1. Knead the dough a bit to warm it up.
   
2. Roll out the dough as thin as you possibly can. For me, it helped to roll it as much as I could, then cut that much into quarters and roll that as much as I could, and finally to cut those quarters in half and roll each eighth to the appropriate thinness.
3. Cut the dough into 3" diameter circles. Put a dab of filling in the middle of one, then put another over it and pinch at the edges. You can curl the edges back over onto themselves, too, and then pinch them down with a fork.
4. Brush the top of each kreplach with a bit of egg yolk.

FREEZE 'EM OR COOK 'EM:

You only want to cook as many kreplach as you're going to eat immediately. Fortunately, kreplach freeze beautifully in an airtight container.

FREEZE: You want to minimize the exposure to air, while also laying them flat so they don't freeze together or deform. A trick I use for this sort of thing is to lay a zip-loc bag on top of a baking sheet, and then to put the kreplach inside the bag and freeze them. Once they're frozen, you can remove the baking sheet.

BOIL: Bring some water to a rolling boil. Place the kreplach in gently. They will sink straight to the bottom. They are almost done when they begin to rise to the top, after 4-6 minutes. Give it another minute or so more. Remove from the water. Serve immediately.

DO NOT DEFROST! You can boil them directly from the freezer; it just adds an extra minute or so to the cooking time.

Spicy Mustard Potato Salad

I am still tweaking this recipe to get it where I want it to be, but it's already pretty good. Feedback is certainly welcome as I attempt to create a zingy, spicy, German-style potato salad. The intense, warm zest of the whole-grain mustard is the dominant flavor, with the brown mustard mainly serving to coat the potato pieces, so that no part of the salad is left untouched by the mustard.

Note that whole-grain mustard (with the mustardseeds intact) requires much more volume for the same amount of flavor and coverage. If you're using anything else, make much less dressing.

If prepared without bacon, this dish can be kosher parve. (For those at my family hannukah party now reading this--don't worry, the version I served was parve!)

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 oz. bacon --OR-- 3 tbsp. olive oil
  
• 3-4 lbs. red potatoes
• 1/2 red onion, finely chopped
• 2/3 cup whole-grain mustard
  
• 1/4 cup spicy brown mustard (such as Goulden's)
• 1 tbsp. ground mustardseed
• 1/3 cup cider vinegar
• 1 bunch of fresh dill, finely chopped
  
• 1 tbsp. freshly grated horseradish

DIRECTIONS:

1. Boil enough water to cover potatoes. Add potatoes to boiling water and allow to cook for 20-25 minutes or until tender.
2. Meanwhile, if you are using bacon, cook the bacon in a griddle until somewhat crispy. Set aside, reserving the grease.
3. Once the potatoes are done cooking, cut them into 3/4" cubes.
4. Combine mustards, horseradish, vinegar and oil or grease in a bowl and combine well. Do not puree.
   
5. Put potatoes in a bowl. Crumble the bacon onto the potatoes, along with half the dill. Add the onions and dressing and gently combine.
6. Garnish with remaining dill.
   

Serve warm.

Potato Latkes ( Recipe by Marlene Sorosky)

For 24 pancakes:

( 1 Vitamin C tablet )
2 1/2 pounds baking potatoes ( about 4 large potatoes)
1/2 onion
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
2 Tb flour or matzoh meal

Vegetable Oil

Directions:

• Place vitamin C tablet in a small bowl with 2 Tb water to dissolve. ( this step is optional... Peel the potatoes, and keep in a bowl of cold water until you are ready to shred them. ) Shred potatoes, using shredding blade of food processor, or by hand; place in a bowl. Stir in dissolved vitamin C.
• Shred or finely chop onion. Add to potatoes.
• Add eggs, salt , baking powder, and flour or matzoh meal; mix well.
• In a large skillet, heat 1/2 inch oil over moderately high heat. Using a slotted spoon, place about 2 Tb of batter into hot oil for each pancake. Do not crowd pancakes in pan.
• Flatten slightly with the back of the spoon and fry pancakes until golden on both sides, turning once.
• As you reach the end, squeeze batter lightly to remove excess liquid.
• After frying, remove to paper towels to drain.( Or brown paper bags with a paper towel on top. Pancakes may be kept warm in single layer in a 200 degree oven. May be frozen. Freeze on baking sheets in single layers. When solid, place in container. Bake in single layer on baking sheets at 450 degrees for 5-10 minutes or until crisp and bubbling.

Do not double the recipe, as the last of the raw potato batter gets too starchy and brown when it sits too long.

You can also coarsely grate the potatoes, and let some edges stick up and get more crispy. Or you can grate them, and then if it is too coarse for you, put them into the processor and pulse the blade a few times to more finely process them. It is up to you. Whatever you like!

When you are done, your house will smell like Latkes for a while!!

Love, Mom

RECIPE: JOAN NATHAN

YOU WILL NEED:

10 medium potatoes

2 medium onions

2 large or 3 medium eggs

4 Tb flour, breadcrumbs, or matzoh meal

salt and pepper to taste

veg oil

• Peel the potatoes if the skin is coarse; otherwise, just clean them well. Keep them in cold water until ready to prepare the latkes.
• Starting with the onions, alternately grate some of the onions on the large holes of the grater and some of the potatoes on the smallest holes. This will keep the potato mixture from blackening, probably from the acid in the onions. Press out as much liquid as possible and reserve the starchy sediment at the bottom of the bowl. Return the sediment to the mixture. ( I have done this, and it works well: it is the potato starch, and it has a strange but fun texture. ) Blend potatoes with the eggs, flour, salt, and white pepper.
• Heat 1 " of oil in a frying pan. Drop about 1 Tb of mixture, fry turning once.
• She says the steel blade of a food processor or the grating blade are less painful ways of grating the potatoes and the onions. The blade makes a smooth consistency and the grater a crunchy one.I think if you are doing many, don't grate by hand. Save it for a smaller, special batch. But, you can grate in the food processor, first some potato, and then some onion. It is the same idea.