New England Feijoada

This is my take on the succulent Portuguese bean stew of the same name. Being a New Englander, I could not resist making it slightly sweet, but the spirit of the authentic thing shines through. I would have loved to use some tawny port instead of sherry, but that was all I had.

Initially, I made the stew in a slow cooker; but this dried out the linguica. I have not yet tried it out on range-top, but I have a very good idea of how it should come out. All in all, I am quite pleased with this excellent winter stew.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 lb. dry black beans, soaked overnight
  
• 2 lbs oxtail, trimmed
  
• 1 lb. linguica, cut on a bias into 1/3" rounds
• 1 large onion, diced
• 3 large cloves garlic, crushed
• 1/2 cup pitted prunes
• 1/4 cup tawny port or sherry
  
• 7 cups water
• Olive oil for sauté

DIRECTIONS

1. In a heavy pot, brown the oxtail over medium-high heat until seared on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Remove and set aside.
   
2. Reduce heat to medium-low; add olive oil. Sauté onions and garlic until caramelized, about 10 minutes, turning frequently.
   
3. Add the port and scrape the bottom of the pan with a spatula. (If using a nonstick pot, be sure to use a plastic spatula.) This should free up all browned bits from the oxtail and the onions.
   
4. Add all remaining ingredients to the pot, and simmer on medium-low for 1 1/2 hours or until beans are tender.

Serve with white rice.

Split Pea Curry

This excellent curry is a fine alternative to a traditional split pea soup (such as the first post on this blog). This one is based on the recipe entitled "Lemon-Split Pea Soup" from The Art of Seasonal Cooking by Perla Meyers (New York: Simon & Schuster, 1991), which, despite its name, contained lemon only in the garnish. No matter. It is a fine recipe, and I made only a few small changes to suit my taste.

I would certainly also try this with lentils. I also plan on adding okra and/or potatoes in a future iteration. Stay tuned.

Meyers called for heavy cream, which struck me as profoundly gratuitous. I added light cream instead, and still felt that it was unnecessary if the soup was made with a good stock. I suppose the light cream could do something for the soup if using a commercial broth; for homemade broth, don't bother (or use less).

Since the soup is pureed at the end, it is acceptable to prep the carrots in a food processor.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 2 large onions, peeled and finely diced
• 3 large carrots, peeled and finely diced
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 1/2 cups split green peas, rinsed
• 6 cups chicken stock
• 6 whole black peppercorns
• 1/2 cup light cream (optional, see above)
• 2 tsp. minced jalapeño peppers (optional)
• Salt to taste

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a heavy soup pot, heat the butter and oil over medium-low heat. Once butter is melted, add onions and peppers. Sauté until onions are soft, stirring frequently, about 7-10 minutes.
2. Add the carrots and continue to sauté for 5-6 more minutes or until carrots begin to soften.
3. Add the cumin and stir well to combine. Add the peas and stir to combine. Allow to cook with the onion mixture for a minute or two.
4. Add the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer, cover, and allow to cook for 45 minutes.
5. If you have an immersion blender, use it to puree the soup to the desired consistency. Otherwise, puree in a conventional blender or food processor in small batches, then return to the pot.
6. Add the cream (if using) and stir to combine. 
7. Salt to taste.

Serve with bread. Makes an excellent leftover.

Ratatouille Channa

This chickpea and eggplant curry started out as a recipe for ratatouille from "Cooking for Engineers." But I don't like sweet peppers, so I decided to substitute finely diced carrots to achieve an alternative sweet crunch. And then I didn't have any zucchinni. And then I decided to add a pound of chickpeas to make it into a meal. So it basically has no resemblance to the original. But it'd delicious!

NOTE: You will be deglazing the pot in this recipe, so do not use a non-stick pot!

If you substitute vegetable broth or white wine for the chicken stock, this recipe is vegan and kosher parve.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 ripe tomatoes, diced
• 1 1/2 lbs eggplant, cut into 1/2 cubes
  
• 1 lb. cooked chickpeas (about 8 oz. dry)
  
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 3/4 cup chicken stock or white wine
• 4 carrots, diced into very small (<>
• 10 oz. crimini mushrooms, quartered
  
• 2 tbsp. tomato paste
  
• 4 cloves garlic, crushed
  
• 4 sprigs basil, minced
• 5 sprigs parsely, minced
• Olive oil for sauteing
• Salt and pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:

1. Heat olive oil in a soup pot over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté for 1-2 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula.
2. Add onion and continue to sauté until soft, another 4-6 minutes.
3. Add the tomato paste and combine, continuing to sauté until the tomato paste begins to darken, 1-2 minutes.
   
4. Deglaze the pot with the broth, scraping the bottom with the wooden spatula to free all the onion and tomato drippings.
5. Once the broth begins to simmer, add the mushrooms eggplant and carrots. Cook for 12 minutes, stirring frequently.
6. Add diced tomatoes, chickpeas and minced herbs. Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for a couple more minutes.

Serve with white rice. Makes excellent leftovers.

Hummus

UPDATE 1/16/09: As I get more and more proficient with crushing garlic, I realize that I need less and less of it to unleash a garlicy flare. At this point, three cloves of raw garlic creates an overwhelming garlicky taste, even for more than two pounds of chick peas. The recipe has been updated accordingly.

Hummus is one of my favorite foods. But the results were fairly inconsistent when I used my typical cooking approach of throwing things together without measurements. Finally, I decided to get serious with the hummus and produce an exact procedure for producing this delectable paste precisely as I want it every time.

If you ignore everything else I say here, remember this: forget canned chickpeas. They produce a mushy, metallic-tasting hummus that, while slightly cheaper than storebought hummus, is not much tastier. You want dry chickpeas, and what you do with them will greatly affect how good your hummus is. (It's not as simple as you thought, is it?)

There are several ways to get excellent results from dried, including traditional reconstitution via the soak-and-boil approach. But this takes a lot of attention and time, things that I do not part with easily. The method I ultimately favor is using a crockpot, which is quick, effortless, and does not require you to stay at home while it cooks.

There is also the issue of what variety of chickpea to use. The most familiar to us here in North America is the European (Kabuli) chickpea, which is large and pale beige. But there is also a darker, smaller variety: known variously as "kala chana," "black chickpeas," "desi chickpeas" or "Bengal gram," these chickpeas have a higher fiber content, a nuttier taste and a firmer consistency. I prefer them.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. dry chick peas
• 1-3 medium garlic cloves, crushed
  
• 8 tbsp lemon juice or cider vinegar
• 6 tbsp. tahini (ground sesame seeds)
• 4 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 tbsp. red pepper flakes (optional)
  
• 1 tsp. salt

DIRECTIONS:

1. Put the chickpeas into a slow cooker. Inspect them for rocks, stems and other foreign particles, and then rinse them several times with cold water.
2. Fill the pot about halfway with water--about enough to cover the chickpeas and then that much twice more.
   
3. Cook in the slow cooker on 'high' for 3-4 hours or until chickpeas are tender but still firm.
   
4. Transfer the chickpeas to a colander. Rinse thoroughly with cold water to remove any excess starch. Allow to dry for several minutes.
5. Transfer the chickpeas and all other ingredients to a food processor. Allow to process for several minutes or until silken. If the chickpeas are too firm to process, add 1 tbsp. water (and not more!) at a time and stir, then try again. Use the absolute minimum amount of water possible.

A common variant is to add za'atar to the hummus. Keep in mind that most za'atar comes pre-salted, so adjust your salt accordingly. Za'atar is available in any Middle Eastern market, as well as any spice shop.

Keeps well for several days. Immediately prior to serving, heat desired portion slightly in the microwave, and top with paprika, pine nuts and olive oil. Serve with pita.

Cholent

On the Jewish sabbath, it is not permitted to create or adjust a fire. This has been extended to all heat sources, making it essential to create foods that can keep cooking all through the sabbath day. Cholent is a sabbath stew so tightly bound to the old-world weekly sabbath rituals that one might reasonably call it a ritual of its own. My version uses a hell of a lot more onions than would typically be found because, hey, onions are fantastic.

Since you are blasting the meat for so incredibly long, it's especially important to use a rich, marbled cut that won't dry out as you cook it. With beef, I prefer flanken (also known as 'boneless short ribs'), but you could also use brisket. Lamb would work very nicely!

Based on impressions from this beautiful essay on cholent.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 medium Spanish onions (about 1.5 - 2 lbs), sliced
  
• 10 oz. Crimini or Baby Bella mushrooms, scrubbed and sliced
• 4-6 whole cloves of garlic, peeled
  
• 1 1/4 cup dry beans (any), rinsed and soaked overnight
• 3/4 cup pearl barley
• 1 1/2 lbs. red bliss potatoes, skin on, cut into large chunks
• 3-4 carrots, washed and cut into large chunks
• 6 cups chicken broth
• 2 lbs. beef brisket or flanken (boneless short rib)
• 1 tbsp. sugar
• 2 tbsp. paprika
• Salt and pepper
• Several whole raw eggs (optional), rinsed
  
• Olive oil for sautéing
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Heat a large skillet to medium-high heat. Once hot, add olive oil and allow to warm.
2. Add the onions and mushrooms along with the sugar. Sauté, turning frequently with a spatula, until beginning to caramelize: about 25-30 minutes.
3. Add the whole garlic cloves and continue to sauté about 5 minutes more. (The garlic will still be white.)
4. In a crockpot, thoroughly combine the caramelized vegetables, the beans, barley, carrots, potatoes and paprika.
   
5. Bury the beef in this mixture.
6. If you have room in the crockpot, bury some eggs in the mixture at this point as well. The egg white will turn an incredible caramel color.
7. Cook in the crock pot on low for a minimum of 8 hours, and as many as 18.

Serve at any time after the first 8 hours. Since you can't shut off the heat on shabbos, it's not uncommon to see people start eating the cholent after 8 or 12 hours, and then again several hours later.

PAIRINGS: I know that beef and beans and barley all fairly scream out 'red wine' (or dark beer), but I find that the entire dish has a sufficiently dark and brooding character that I really crave something a little bit sweet and fruity. Sweet white wines like Gewürztraminer and Riesling come easily to mind, or even a tawny port. A hard cider would also do the job.

Traditionally, people drink hard liquor (often scotch and vodka) on shabbos, although I've never been too crazy for that.

Barley and Fava Beans

Before you ask, no, there isn't a better name for it; and no, I have no idea what ethnicity it ought to be. I made it up a couple of years ago and make it a little differently each time. It makes a fantastic lunch with some pressed dates and white cheese.

Vidalia onions are sweeter than most other onions, and make an absolutely beautiful flavor when sautéed. They play very nicely off the buttery fava beans and the rough barley, and add a certain grandeur to the whole ensemble.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. dry fava beans, reconstituted
• 1 lb. barley
• 6 cups chicken broth
• 2 vidalia onions, sliced
  
• 2-3 tbsp. butter or schmaltz
  
• 3 tbsp. capers, chopped
• 3 tbsp. lemon juice
  
• 1 tin flat anchovy fillets, chopped
• Freshly ground pepper to taste
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Reconstitute the fava beans by whatever method suits you best. (I usually throw beans in the slow-cooker on high for 4-6 hours.)
2. Rinse the barley and place in a pot with the broth. Bring to a boil, then allow to simmer, covered, for 45-60 minutes or until all the broth is absorbed.
3. Meanwhile, heat the butter or schmaltz in a deep nonstick pan. Once hot, add the onions.
4. Sauté the onions over medium-high heat.
5. When the onions begin to soften, add the chopped anchovies. Continue to sauté.
6. Add the capers and black pepper when the onions begin to brown.
7. When the onions have caramelized, add the fava beans and combine thoroughly, mashing slightly if necessary.
8. Mix in the lemon juice and allow to cook on medium heat for several minutes.
9. Add the onion-bean mixture to the barley and combine thoroughly.

Serve warm with feta cheese or other soft brined cheese (such as chêvre or Tek-Süt) and pressed dates or other dried fruit. Also good with olives. Makes an outstanding carry-in lunch.

Red Bean and Walnut Salad

Don't be fooled: the only similarity this has with the recipe below is the basic ingredients. Aside from that, it has much more in common with hummus: the flavor, the heartiness, the incredible ease of making it. The walnuts play a similar role to tahini, but of course have a very different flavor. With much more texture than hummus, this is also more of a salad than a dip. Served with an eggplant course, it would also make a good vegan or vegetarian dinner.

(This recipe is based on a similar recipe called "Red Beans with Walnut Sauce" from the Russian cookbook Please to the Table.)

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. dry red beans
• 8 oz. walnuts, chopped
• 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
• 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
• 2 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 tbsp chopped garlic
• 1/2 tsp ground coriander seeds
• Salt and pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:

1. Rinse and cook the beans. You can either do this the conventional way (soak overnight, boil for 2 hours, let sit for an hour) or the lazy way: throw them in a slow cooker with 3 quarts of water and let it cook on low for 8-12 hours. Drain the beans and put in a bowl.
2. Mash the beans slightly, then mix in all other ingredients.

Russian Red Bean and Walnut Soup

This recipe came to me by way of an ex-girlfriend, who (while we were dating) found it in her grandmother's scrapbook and gave it to me. Years went by and I thought I had lost this delicious winter soup, but it surfaced while I was moving into my condo. Thank goodness for that, because it's hearty, well-balanced and great for a cold evening.

If you use vegetable broth, this can be vegetarian and kosher dairy.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. dried kidney beans
• 1/2 cup walnuts, chopped
• 2 quarts broth (I use chicken broth)
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
• 2 large onions, chopped
  
• 3 tbsp. butter
• 2 tbsp. all-purpose flour
• Red pepper flakes to taste
• 1/2 cup fresh parsely, minced
• Sour cream or yogurt

DIRECTIONS:

1. Rinse beans thoroughly in cold water, checking for grit or foreign particles.
2. Combine the beans and broth in a soup pot; bring to a boil.
3. Add bay leaf and garlic and simmer, covered, for two hours or until beans are soft.
4. Heat the butter in a skillet. Sauté the onions until soft (but not brown).
5. Sprinkle with flour and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture browns.
6. Add some liquid from the soup to the onion mixture and cook for another minute.
7. Pour the onion mixture into the soup.
8. Stir in walnuts, red pepper, parsley. Add salt and pepper to taste.
9. Simmer uncovered for another 25 minutes, stirring often.
10. Remove bay leaf.

Serve with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt.

PAIRINGS:

I suppose this would pair well with a brown ale, but I usually just drink water. That said, I once made a similar stew that played beautifully off Dogfish Head's "Raison D'Être" mahogany ale. Something about the yeasty, sweet ale with the nuts and the red beans...

Beet salad with lentils

There's one thing you can say about the combination of beets and lentils: When you feel the beet, you can't stop the pulse! Pulse, get it? Yeah, didn't think so.

Anyways: this is a very refreshing and filling vegetarian (and vegan!) dish which can happily serve as a main course. The lentils give it a nutty texture and provide a great deal of protein and fiber, and the potatoes provide enough body to make it into a meal. Since potatoes cook faster than beets, you could experiment with cutting up the beets before cooking. (I happen to like the difference.)

My first try at this used dried green peas and new potatoes. I found that both of these lacked sufficient firmness when cooked to make a satisfying salad. So the version I'm putting below contains the substitutions I plan to make for the next time I do it. As always, feedback is welcome.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 lbs. loose red beets (about six large beets)
• 1 lb. russet potatoes
• 1 lb. dried green lentils (green holds its shape the best)
• Fresh dill, finely chopped
• Balsamic vinegar
• Olive oil

DIRECTIONS:

1. Prepare your beets and potatoes by peeling them and, if you wish, cutting the beets in half so that they'll be softer by the time the potatoes are done.
   
2. Rinse and drain the lentils, then put into a pot with about 3 quarts of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and allow to simmer, covered, for about 30-40 minutes or until lentils are soft but not falling apart. Drain excess water and set aside.
   
3. Simultaneously boil the root vegetables, uncovered, in a separate pot; they will take a little less time than the lentils (maybe 25-30 minutes). You'll want to keep these at a rolling boil.
   
4. When the beets and potatoes are soft, cut them into 3/4" cubes.
5. Combine all vegetables with the dill, plenty of balsamic vinegar (more than you'd think--it soaks it right up), some lemon juice, a dash of olive oil, and a bit of salt.

Serve with chopped red onion, hard boiled eggs, yogurt, whatever you like. Or just eat it plain. That's what I did, accompanied by a glass of giovane that I happened to have around. The sweet, floral tones of the immature red really played nicely with the earthy sweetness of the beets and the dry starchiness of the lentils. Lovely!

Split yellow pea soup with okra

I love pea soup. And pea soup loves you, too. Because peas, like lentils, have a ridiculous amount of fiber and protein, and they have a fairly distinctive taste. This is especially nice on cold days. Serve with a dollop of thick yogurt and some spongy bread (like sourdough) and you will be a happy camper. Also delicious over a small grain like quinoa or couscous.

3/22/2008: This recipe also comes out great if you add several carrots, cut into 1" pieces. I also added a tablespoon of molasses. Prepared with broth, the result is an even heartier stew that stands up on its own very impressively for a primarily vegetable-based food.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. dry split yellow peas, rinsed
  
• 6 oz. dry-smoked bacon, chopped
  
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 lb frozen cut okra
  
• 6 cups chicken broth or water
• a dash of lemon juice or cider vinegar
  
• chopped garlic to taste
  
• a dash of applesauce, apple cider or chopped apple (optional)
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a medium-sized soup pot, cook the bacon over high heat until the fat begins to melt, stirring with a spatula to prevent burning.
   
2. Add the chopped onion and sautee with the bacon until it begins to soften.
3. Add the okra and the garlic and them to soften as well, stirring often.
   
4. Add in your peas and mix in with the vegetable-bacon mixture, allowing them to cook together dry for a minute or two while stirring vigorously with a spatula to prevent burning.
5. Add the broth and all remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.
6. Once boiling, reduce heat to a simmer and let cook covered for 30-40 minutes or until peas are soft.
7. (Optional) use an immersion blender to pulverize a little bit of the soup. (Don't overdo this: most of the contents should still be intact.)

This soup is great as a leftover; just heat it up and you're good to go.

PAIRINGS:

Serve with full-bodied red wine, brown ale or cider (hard or soft).