Baba ghannouj

I tried to make baba ghannouj several years ago using a recipe, and concluded that it was a hassle. Today, I decided to try it entirely by feel and concluded that the recipe I'd tried was stupid. Baba is really easy. I wish I'd had this epiphany before.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 eggplant
• 3 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 3 tbsp tahini
• 3/4 tsp salt
• 1-2 cloves garlic, peeled
  
• 1/2 jalapeño (optional)

DIRECTIONS:

1. Slice the eggplant the long way into 3/4" slices. (Do not peel.)
2. Arrange the slices on a broiler pan and broil on high for 10 minutes per side.
3. Transfer all the eggplant and all other ingredients to the food processor.
4. Process until desired consistency has been reached. Adjust seasonings if desired.

Serves two; recipe scales easily.

Sweet potato latkes revisited

I wish I had written down what I did for my sweet potato latkes, as they were a smashing success this year. Alas, I failed to do it at the time, so the best I can do is try to remember a few points about what worked.

• Use olive oil. It tasted immeasurably better than the canola stuff you usually get. Light olive oil is available in big jugs on the cheap (I got a 38 oz monster for $10.99) and that's more than enough to get you through a lot of latkes. Note that olive oil has a lower smoke point than canola oil, so watch the heat or you'll be scrubbing.
• Use one egg and at least three tbsp. flour for every pound of sweet potatoes. You may need even more flour than that. I found that with this much egg and flour kicking around, I didn't have nearly as much trouble getting them to hold together.
• Sweet potatoes don't cast off nearly as much water as regular potatoes do, but they are also less starchy and therefore don't want to stick together.
• Lots of onion. Maybe one medium onion for every 1.5-2 sweet potatoes.I was hesitant to use a lot of onion at first--they're sweet potatoes, after all!--but they really added a fantastic dimension that played right off the olive oil in spectacular fashion. With less onion, the taste was a bit sweet and insipid.
• Careful with the salt. I used the guidelines for normal latkes (about 1/2 tsp. per pound) and it seemed like a lot.

I can't remember if I used any baking soda in the sweets. Too bad; otherwise I'd write up a guestimate of the recipe.

I'm very interested in shredding one beet and tossing that in with the sweet potatoes next year. It would add a lot of pizazz.

Hummus

UPDATE 1/16/09: As I get more and more proficient with crushing garlic, I realize that I need less and less of it to unleash a garlicy flare. At this point, three cloves of raw garlic creates an overwhelming garlicky taste, even for more than two pounds of chick peas. The recipe has been updated accordingly.

Hummus is one of my favorite foods. But the results were fairly inconsistent when I used my typical cooking approach of throwing things together without measurements. Finally, I decided to get serious with the hummus and produce an exact procedure for producing this delectable paste precisely as I want it every time.

If you ignore everything else I say here, remember this: forget canned chickpeas. They produce a mushy, metallic-tasting hummus that, while slightly cheaper than storebought hummus, is not much tastier. You want dry chickpeas, and what you do with them will greatly affect how good your hummus is. (It's not as simple as you thought, is it?)

There are several ways to get excellent results from dried, including traditional reconstitution via the soak-and-boil approach. But this takes a lot of attention and time, things that I do not part with easily. The method I ultimately favor is using a crockpot, which is quick, effortless, and does not require you to stay at home while it cooks.

There is also the issue of what variety of chickpea to use. The most familiar to us here in North America is the European (Kabuli) chickpea, which is large and pale beige. But there is also a darker, smaller variety: known variously as "kala chana," "black chickpeas," "desi chickpeas" or "Bengal gram," these chickpeas have a higher fiber content, a nuttier taste and a firmer consistency. I prefer them.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. dry chick peas
• 1-3 medium garlic cloves, crushed
  
• 8 tbsp lemon juice or cider vinegar
• 6 tbsp. tahini (ground sesame seeds)
• 4 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 tbsp. red pepper flakes (optional)
  
• 1 tsp. salt

DIRECTIONS:

1. Put the chickpeas into a slow cooker. Inspect them for rocks, stems and other foreign particles, and then rinse them several times with cold water.
2. Fill the pot about halfway with water--about enough to cover the chickpeas and then that much twice more.
   
3. Cook in the slow cooker on 'high' for 3-4 hours or until chickpeas are tender but still firm.
   
4. Transfer the chickpeas to a colander. Rinse thoroughly with cold water to remove any excess starch. Allow to dry for several minutes.
5. Transfer the chickpeas and all other ingredients to a food processor. Allow to process for several minutes or until silken. If the chickpeas are too firm to process, add 1 tbsp. water (and not more!) at a time and stir, then try again. Use the absolute minimum amount of water possible.

A common variant is to add za'atar to the hummus. Keep in mind that most za'atar comes pre-salted, so adjust your salt accordingly. Za'atar is available in any Middle Eastern market, as well as any spice shop.

Keeps well for several days. Immediately prior to serving, heat desired portion slightly in the microwave, and top with paprika, pine nuts and olive oil. Serve with pita.

Kasha (Roasted buckwheat)

Kasha is a traditional preparation of buckwheat groats prepared in stock with mushrooms, onions and (sometimes) meat. I love kasha. I think the better the broth you use, the deeper the flavor is, and also the nutrients.

I love to cook a meat or dark poultry to go into the kasha. I make a really strong broth first. I make either a beef broth or a chicken broth. Then, the next day, or later that day, brown the meat you want to use: like flanken or chuck or turkey thighs or whatever you use, and then simmer it (poach) in the broth (strained) for a few hours till it is falling apart and wonderful. Strain the broth again (if necessary) . This recipe uses 4 cups. Put it aside for the kasha. It has to be BOILING
only at the point when you add it to the pan with the vegetables and the egg/kasha mixture.Cut the meat up and keep warm and save to add to the kasha in the end.

Kasha Varniskes is kasha with bow-tie noodles. I cook two cups dry noodles and drain and keep to add at the end with the meat.

NOTE (4/18/09): Do not wash the groats, or else they will absorb some of that water while cooking with the eggs and end up soggy.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 cups kasha (medium or coarse granulation)
• 2 cups dry bow tie noodles, cooked and drained
• 2 large eggs
• 1 cup chopped onions
• 1 cup chopped mushrooms
• 4 cups broth, hot

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a large saute or frying pan with a cover, cook the onions and mushrooms in oil until they are very soft and fully cooked, and smell great. You can add salt and pepper to them.
2. Keep this mixture warm until you are ready to add the hot kasha/egg mixture and the boiling broth to it.
3. KASHA : Beat 2 large eggs in a bowl. Add 2 cups dry kasha and use a fork to stir together until the kasha groats are all coated with egg.
4. Into another HOT (NON STICK )skillet ( yes, there are a lot of pots and pans and bowls for this ) toss the coated kasha groats. Cook over high heat 2-3 minutes,stirring,until the egg has dried on the kasha , the groats are separate and hot to the back of your finger.
5. Now, make sure that the broth is boiling, or get it boiling. ( Don't let it sit there boiling because you will lose some and there will be less than 4 cups).
6. Add the kasha/egg mixture to the frying pan with the mushrooms and onions (which you have thoughtfully heated up again) . Pour in the hot broth. Let it come back to a little boil, and then cover and turn down the heat and simmer for 7-10 minutes until the kasha groats are tender and the liquid is absorbed. It may take a longer time depending upon the richness of the broth.
7. Add the meat , if using, and the noodles. Season.

Serve warm; very good left over.

Gahntze Tzimmes

Tzimmes, a sweet, heavy, root vegetable side dish, is made gahntz--whole, full--when cooked with beef or chicken. It is served at most holidays, especially Passover, when the high fiber content is particularly welcome. This New England adaptation makes use of one of our most beloved local vegetables: the butternut squash.

If you happen to dislike slow cookers (but why?), you could prepare this the old-fashioned way by blasting it in a 400 degree oven for an hour, and then turning it down to 300 and blasting it for 4-5 hours more. (Yeah, I'll take the slow cooker.)

Obviously, this thoroughly Yiddish dish can be prepared kosher (fleishig).

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 small (2 - 2 1/2 lb) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and diced
  
• 1 1/2 lbs sweet potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1 lb. carrots, peeled and sliced (or baby carrots)
• 2 lbs. flanken or brisket, chopped into pieces (or cut the meat off 4 lbs. of short ribs)
• 1 lb. dried fruit (usually prunes and apricots)
• 1 cup orange juice
• 2 tbsp. brown sugar
• 2 tbsp. flour
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice
• Several cups boiling water
  
• Ground cloves
• Ground nutmeg
• Ground allspice
• A dash of ginger (optional)
  

DIRECTIONS (LAZY):

1. Put the beef, carrots, squash, potatoes and dried fruit in the slow cooker.
2. Combine the brown sugar, flour and spices. Add some of the boiling water so it all dissolves.
3. Pour this over the tzimmes. Pour enough boiling water in that it's near the top of the tzimmes. Turn heat to low and let cook for 8-10 hours.

DIRECTIONS (AMBITIOUS):

1. Preheat the oven to 400.
   
2. Place the vegetables and dried fruit at the bottom of a casserole and combine.
   
3. Brown the beef in a deep skillet, then place on top of fruit and vegetables.
   
4. Add the orange juice to the skillet and deglaze with a spatula. Transfer to a bowl and whisk in brown sugar, flour and spices.
5. Pour over tzimmes. Pour enough boiling water in that it's near the top of the tzimmes.
6. Bake, covered, at 400 for an hour.
7. Reduce heat to 300 and bake for another 4-5 hours.

Serve hot. Even better left over.

Barley and Fava Beans

Before you ask, no, there isn't a better name for it; and no, I have no idea what ethnicity it ought to be. I made it up a couple of years ago and make it a little differently each time. It makes a fantastic lunch with some pressed dates and white cheese.

Vidalia onions are sweeter than most other onions, and make an absolutely beautiful flavor when sautéed. They play very nicely off the buttery fava beans and the rough barley, and add a certain grandeur to the whole ensemble.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. dry fava beans, reconstituted
• 1 lb. barley
• 6 cups chicken broth
• 2 vidalia onions, sliced
  
• 2-3 tbsp. butter or schmaltz
  
• 3 tbsp. capers, chopped
• 3 tbsp. lemon juice
  
• 1 tin flat anchovy fillets, chopped
• Freshly ground pepper to taste
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Reconstitute the fava beans by whatever method suits you best. (I usually throw beans in the slow-cooker on high for 4-6 hours.)
2. Rinse the barley and place in a pot with the broth. Bring to a boil, then allow to simmer, covered, for 45-60 minutes or until all the broth is absorbed.
3. Meanwhile, heat the butter or schmaltz in a deep nonstick pan. Once hot, add the onions.
4. Sauté the onions over medium-high heat.
5. When the onions begin to soften, add the chopped anchovies. Continue to sauté.
6. Add the capers and black pepper when the onions begin to brown.
7. When the onions have caramelized, add the fava beans and combine thoroughly, mashing slightly if necessary.
8. Mix in the lemon juice and allow to cook on medium heat for several minutes.
9. Add the onion-bean mixture to the barley and combine thoroughly.

Serve warm with feta cheese or other soft brined cheese (such as chêvre or Tek-Süt) and pressed dates or other dried fruit. Also good with olives. Makes an outstanding carry-in lunch.

Kreplach (pierogi)

Update (02/02/08): What started out as a disappointing knish experiment turned into a startlingly excellent kreplach experiment. The dough is essentially a schmaltzy egg pasta: too dry to be baked, but perfect for boiling. Fortunately, I had half a batch left uncooked in my freezer to try this experiment out on.

These are more like pierogi that I've had in that the dough is thicker and eggier than most kreplach, which have an almost translucent, angelic quality. They are delicious by themselves with mustard or goat cheese, and I am sure they would also make an outstanding contribution to chicken soup.

I still haven't figured out how to make knishes, alas.

INGREDIENTS -- DOUGH:

• 3 medium eggs, beaten
  
• 2 tbsp. schmaltz
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• About 1 1/2 cups flour (see instructions below)
• An extra egg yolk (for glazing)
  

INGREDIENTS -- FILLING:

• 3 lbs. russet potatoes
• 1 lb. onions, thinly sliced
  
• 1 tbsp. chopped garlic
• 8 oz. sliced mushrooms
• 3 tbsp. schmaltz
• 1 medium egg, beaten
  
• Salt and pepper

OVERALL STRATEGY:

Slice the potatoes ahead of time. Bring some water to a boil while working on the first steps of the dough. Throw the potatoes in while you're doing that. Then you can prepare the onions and mushrooms. While they are still in their early stages of sauteeing, mash the potatoes and add the egg (while stirring onions occasionally). That way, it's all ready to be combined when the onions are done. After you've done that, get to work rolling out the dough. Finally, boil as much as you'd like to eat now and freeze the rest for later.

DIRECTIONS -- DOUGH:

1. Beat the eggs together with the schmaltz, salt and baking soda.
2. In a mixing bowl, add about 3/4 cup of flour and combine thoroughly with a spatula. This will have a sticky, pasty consistency.
3. Add more flour a very little bit at a time--2 tablespoons at most--mixing very thoroughly, just until the dough is no longer sticky. You will have to use your hands after it starts to thicken up.
4. Knead until it's a totally even, dense ball of dough. Cover the mixing bowl and let stand for about 45 minutes (about the time it will take to make the filling).
   

DIRECTIONS -- FILLING:

1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. Slice the potatoes into 3/4"-thick rounds but do not peel them. Boil them to desired consistency.
2. Meanwhile, heat the schmaltz in a saucepan. (WARNING: schmaltz burns faster than vegetable oil.) When the schmaltz is hot, add the mushrooms and onions.
3. Sauté the onions and mushrooms on medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until they begin to turn gold.
4. Add the garlic and continue to cook until the onions caramelize, stirring constantly.
5. Mash the potatoes and stir in the egg thoroughly. Add a bit more schmaltz if it's not smooth.
6. Once the onions and mushrooms are ready, add them to the potatoes. Season with plenty of salt and pepper.

ASSEMBLING YOUR KREPLACH:

1. Knead the dough a bit to warm it up.
   
2. Roll out the dough as thin as you possibly can. For me, it helped to roll it as much as I could, then cut that much into quarters and roll that as much as I could, and finally to cut those quarters in half and roll each eighth to the appropriate thinness.
3. Cut the dough into 3" diameter circles. Put a dab of filling in the middle of one, then put another over it and pinch at the edges. You can curl the edges back over onto themselves, too, and then pinch them down with a fork.
4. Brush the top of each kreplach with a bit of egg yolk.

FREEZE 'EM OR COOK 'EM:

You only want to cook as many kreplach as you're going to eat immediately. Fortunately, kreplach freeze beautifully in an airtight container.

FREEZE: You want to minimize the exposure to air, while also laying them flat so they don't freeze together or deform. A trick I use for this sort of thing is to lay a zip-loc bag on top of a baking sheet, and then to put the kreplach inside the bag and freeze them. Once they're frozen, you can remove the baking sheet.

BOIL: Bring some water to a rolling boil. Place the kreplach in gently. They will sink straight to the bottom. They are almost done when they begin to rise to the top, after 4-6 minutes. Give it another minute or so more. Remove from the water. Serve immediately.

DO NOT DEFROST! You can boil them directly from the freezer; it just adds an extra minute or so to the cooking time.

Spicy Mustard Potato Salad

I am still tweaking this recipe to get it where I want it to be, but it's already pretty good. Feedback is certainly welcome as I attempt to create a zingy, spicy, German-style potato salad. The intense, warm zest of the whole-grain mustard is the dominant flavor, with the brown mustard mainly serving to coat the potato pieces, so that no part of the salad is left untouched by the mustard.

Note that whole-grain mustard (with the mustardseeds intact) requires much more volume for the same amount of flavor and coverage. If you're using anything else, make much less dressing.

If prepared without bacon, this dish can be kosher parve. (For those at my family hannukah party now reading this--don't worry, the version I served was parve!)

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 oz. bacon --OR-- 3 tbsp. olive oil
  
• 3-4 lbs. red potatoes
• 1/2 red onion, finely chopped
• 2/3 cup whole-grain mustard
  
• 1/4 cup spicy brown mustard (such as Goulden's)
• 1 tbsp. ground mustardseed
• 1/3 cup cider vinegar
• 1 bunch of fresh dill, finely chopped
  
• 1 tbsp. freshly grated horseradish

DIRECTIONS:

1. Boil enough water to cover potatoes. Add potatoes to boiling water and allow to cook for 20-25 minutes or until tender.
2. Meanwhile, if you are using bacon, cook the bacon in a griddle until somewhat crispy. Set aside, reserving the grease.
3. Once the potatoes are done cooking, cut them into 3/4" cubes.
4. Combine mustards, horseradish, vinegar and oil or grease in a bowl and combine well. Do not puree.
   
5. Put potatoes in a bowl. Crumble the bacon onto the potatoes, along with half the dill. Add the onions and dressing and gently combine.
6. Garnish with remaining dill.
   

Serve warm.

Mom's Jello Mold

I am only slightly embarrassed to put a Jello mold on this blog. But one of its main functions is to catalog the foods that my family and I care about, so haute cuisine be damned: this Jello mold has been showing up at family functions since my grandmother came up with it long before I was thinking about being born.

Anyways, I think it's pretty and I like it better than cranberry sauce to have with my turkey. It's dark red, it's tangy, it's got texture. It's very 1950s. You can imagine some people getting back from the Catskills and trying to decide what to serve their neighbors for dinner:

"What do you think of liver and onions, Candice?"
"Well, Fred, we served it to the Horowitzes the last time they were here. How about some nice kishkas?"
"Kishkas! But I..."
"'But I' what? Nu? Solomon, you hear your father? Complaining about Kishkas? Tell him--"
"Alright, Candice, Alright. But only if you make that Jello mold with the plums."

So...anyways:

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 6oz. packages berry (cranberry, raspberry, strawberry, etc.) Jello
• 2 cups walnuts, coarsely chopped
• 2 cups seedless tangerines or oranges, cut into pieces
• 2 large golden delicious apples, sliced and diced
• 1 grated orange peel
• 2 (15 oz.) cans whole cranberry sauce
• 1 can purple plums, pitted and chopped
• Non-stick cooking spray

RECIPE:

1. Boil 2 cups of water and put in a large bowl.
2. Dissolve Jello in the water, stirring constantly to prevent lumps.
3. Add 2 cups of cold water and grated orange rind.
4. Refrigerate until "jiggly": 30-60 minutes.
5. Break up the cranberry sauce and add the fruit and nuts to the Jello.
   
6. Spray an 8-10 cup mold with cooking spray and pour in the Jello mixture.
7. Refrigerate until the Jello is set.

Solomon, Candice, Fred and the Horowitzes will all be pleased, I'm sure.