Fish Chowder

Raphael Pereira introduced me to the charms of salt cod, known in Portuguese as bacalao. Cod is the fish for which Cape Cod, Massachusetts gets its name, and has historically been abundant along the coast of New England and Nova Scotia. The fish is dried and preserved in salt, creating a commodity that could survive the journey back to Europe.

This chowder, based (loosely) on the one found here, is very typical of traditional New England food. Fish chowder and its more famous cousin, clam chowder, have been signatures of the Boston area for centuries.

Here I have tried to do it some justice, creating a hearty stew in the old New England fashion.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. salt cod (bacalao), soaked for 8-12 hours in ice water
• 3-4 potatoes, peeled and diced (about 3 cups)
• 2-3 medium carrots, peeled and diced (about 1 cup)
• 1 medium onion, chopped
  
• 1 can (12 oz.) evaporated milk
• 1/2 lb bacon or salt pork, minced
  
• 3 cups milk
• Black pepper to taste
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Bring some water to a boil. Blanch the soaked ("freshened") cod by immersing it in the boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then immediately immersing it in ice cold water. Remove from water and set aside.
   
2. Cook minced bacon over medium-high heat for several minutes until it begins to cast off a good deal of fat. Add the chopped onions and sauté until tender.
3. Add the carrots, potatoes and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook covered until vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally to prevent the bottom from burning.
4. Break the fish into large-ish chunks (it will continue to fall apart on its own).
   
5. Add fish, milk and evaporated milk to the vegetables. Cook gently over medium-high heat for several minutes. Do not boil or the milk will curdle.

Serve immediately.