Hummus

UPDATE 1/16/09: As I get more and more proficient with crushing garlic, I realize that I need less and less of it to unleash a garlicy flare. At this point, three cloves of raw garlic creates an overwhelming garlicky taste, even for more than two pounds of chick peas. The recipe has been updated accordingly.

Hummus is one of my favorite foods. But the results were fairly inconsistent when I used my typical cooking approach of throwing things together without measurements. Finally, I decided to get serious with the hummus and produce an exact procedure for producing this delectable paste precisely as I want it every time.

If you ignore everything else I say here, remember this: forget canned chickpeas. They produce a mushy, metallic-tasting hummus that, while slightly cheaper than storebought hummus, is not much tastier. You want dry chickpeas, and what you do with them will greatly affect how good your hummus is. (It's not as simple as you thought, is it?)

There are several ways to get excellent results from dried, including traditional reconstitution via the soak-and-boil approach. But this takes a lot of attention and time, things that I do not part with easily. The method I ultimately favor is using a crockpot, which is quick, effortless, and does not require you to stay at home while it cooks.

There is also the issue of what variety of chickpea to use. The most familiar to us here in North America is the European (Kabuli) chickpea, which is large and pale beige. But there is also a darker, smaller variety: known variously as "kala chana," "black chickpeas," "desi chickpeas" or "Bengal gram," these chickpeas have a higher fiber content, a nuttier taste and a firmer consistency. I prefer them.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. dry chick peas
• 1-3 medium garlic cloves, crushed
  
• 8 tbsp lemon juice or cider vinegar
• 6 tbsp. tahini (ground sesame seeds)
• 4 tbsp. olive oil
• 1 tbsp. red pepper flakes (optional)
  
• 1 tsp. salt

DIRECTIONS:

1. Put the chickpeas into a slow cooker. Inspect them for rocks, stems and other foreign particles, and then rinse them several times with cold water.
2. Fill the pot about halfway with water--about enough to cover the chickpeas and then that much twice more.
   
3. Cook in the slow cooker on 'high' for 3-4 hours or until chickpeas are tender but still firm.
   
4. Transfer the chickpeas to a colander. Rinse thoroughly with cold water to remove any excess starch. Allow to dry for several minutes.
5. Transfer the chickpeas and all other ingredients to a food processor. Allow to process for several minutes or until silken. If the chickpeas are too firm to process, add 1 tbsp. water (and not more!) at a time and stir, then try again. Use the absolute minimum amount of water possible.

A common variant is to add za'atar to the hummus. Keep in mind that most za'atar comes pre-salted, so adjust your salt accordingly. Za'atar is available in any Middle Eastern market, as well as any spice shop.

Keeps well for several days. Immediately prior to serving, heat desired portion slightly in the microwave, and top with paprika, pine nuts and olive oil. Serve with pita.