Meat mina

This meat kugel is inspired by Sephardic recipes for mina con carne. If you avoid kitnyot on Passover, substitute sliced carrots or more spinach for the peas. You can use honey and vinegar in place of the extra sweet red wine; I just wanted to get the stuff used up!

Note that you want ordinary matzo for these sorts of things. Do not use whole wheat or egg matzo.

Again, by 'drained' spinach I mean really drained. It is necessary to squeeze out the water.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2-3 matzos
• 1 lb. ground beef or lamb
• 1 yellow or Spanish onion, finely chopped
  
• 1/2 cup raisins
• 1 cup frozen peas, thawed
• 3 tbsp. extra sweet red wine (or 2 tbsp. vinegar + 1 tbsp. honey)
  
• 1 lb. frozen spinach, thawed and drained
• 1 tbsp. tomato paste
  
• 6 tbsp. olive oil
• 1/2 tsp. ground allspice
• 1/2 tsp. ground cloves
  
• 3 eggs

DIRECTIONS:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
   
2. Soak the matzos in water for 2 minutes, then immediately press between paper towels to drain away excess moisture. This will make them flexible but not soggy.
3. Coat a non-stick baking pan with 2 tbsp. oil, then cover the bottom with the matzos.
4. In a saucepan, heat 2 tbsp. olive oil, then sauté the onions in the oil over medium-high heat until soft.
   
5. Add the ground meat and sauté together for 3-4 minutes. When the meat is almost cooked, add the tomato paste, wine, peas, spinach and raisins. Allow to cook for another minute or two on low heat.
6. In a separate bowl, beat eggs thoroughly. Combine with meat mixture and transfer to the pan with the matzos.
7. Bake at 400 degrees for 50 minutes or until top is golden.
   

Farfel Kugel

A kugel is a pudding or casserole, and while there are many different kinds of kugels, I generally divide them into two categories: sweet and savory. This kugel, made from matzo farfel (crumbled matzo), is a lot like bread pudding, except richer.

The traditional place of a dairy kugel like this one is on Saturday (shabbat) morning brunch; you could also serve it for any breakfast. Traditionally, it would not be served with or after a meat meal because eating milk after meat is prohibited. However, if you do not keep kosher, this makes a fine dessert.

By soaking the matzo farfel before using it, it mostly disintegrates and gives the kugel a smooth, pudding-like texture. I plan on posting another variation on farfel kugel that seeks to keep the matzo somewhat more intact.

I got this recipe from my mother, who got it from The Jewish Home Cookbook. I have made a couple of substitutions (in parentheses) to bring it from 'inconceivably high fat' to merely 'very high fat.' Mmmm....

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 cup matzo farfel (or whole matzo crumbled into small pieces)
• 3/4 cup butter
• 5 eggs
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 8 tbsp. cottage cheese
• 4 tbsp. (lowfat) sour cream
• 8 oz. (light) cream cheese
• 3/4 cup golden raisins
  
• 1 cup milk
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• 2 tsp. cinnamon

DIRECTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees; boil some water.
   
2. Combine matzo farfel and raisins in a bowl.
3. Cover farfel and raisin mixture with boiling water and let stand 15 minutes; then drain in a colander.
4. Meanwhile, beat eggs and then add sugar, salt, cottage cheese, sour cream and cream cheese, combining thoroughly. (Use a blender for this if you prefer.)
   
5. Melt the butter and combine with the matzo farfel so that it is coated. Then add the egg mixture and combine. Transfer the mixture to a buttered, nonstick baking pan or casserole.
6. Scald the milk in a saucepan, then pour it evenly over the kugel. Do not mix.
7. Bake for 30 minutes at 400 degrees, then another 20 minutes at 350 degrees.

Allow to cool slightly before serving. Makes great leftovers.

Mina (Passover Spinach and Cheese Pie)

My mother made this for me when I was a kid. I think it's pretty tasty, although I could go for a zestier flavor. The end product is like a cross between a Tortilla Española and spanakopita.

One tip: when I say 'drained' spinach, I mean really drained. Take the spinach in your hands and squeeze it. It's amazing how much water there is in a package of spinach.

An idea that I had as I struggled with the eggs was that perhaps it would be better to dip the upper layer of matzo in eggs first, and then pour the remaining eggs over that, thus creating what is in effect a layer of matzo brei on top. It would definitely make the results more even. Mixing an additional egg or two into the spinach wouldn't be bad.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 lbs. frozen spinach, thawed and drained
• 1 cup feta cheese, crumbled
• 3 cloves garlic
  
• 4 eggs, beaten
  
• 4 matzos
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• Bowl of water
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
2. Put 1/4 cup oil at the bottom of a baking pan. The pan should be slightly larger than a matzo--say 10x12 or 12x12.
3. Dip two of the matzos in water quickly (or they will become soggy) and then arrange them at the bottom of the pan, breaking them if necessary, so that the bottom is covered.
4. Mix the spinach, feta and garlic in a bowl; arrange on top of matzo.
5. Dip the remaining matzos in water and arrange on top of the spinach. Pour the eggs over this, attempting to apply them evenly.
6. Bake for 10 minutes. Drizzle remaining oil over the casserole and return to oven for another 30 minutes.

Allow to cool slightly before serving.

Hot Chocolate (and Friends)

I discovered LA Burdick in my second year of college, and found myself happily addicted to their rich, lathery hot and iced chocolates. I was less addicted to the several dollars that each cup costs. Fortunately, they do not keep their recipe a secret. I have halved this recipe, which is corroborated by several other websites, for the basic hot chocolate.

This is not to say that it's not still worth buying it from Burdick: they use shaved chocolate, a painstaking process that produces a more decadent result; and they have proper equipment for steaming and scalding milk to the perfect temperatures. If you've never been, you'd better try it.

I know better than to tamper with perfection: the hot chocolate keeps the original Burdick proportions. But for cafe mocha, below, I have tweaked things a bit to accommodate the coffee.

SPICED HOT CHOCOLATE

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 oz. milk
• 2 tbsp. dark chocolate (ground up is best, but chocolate chips will do)
• 1 1/4 tsp. cocoa powder
• 1/4 tsp nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp cinnamon
• Pinch of white pepper (optional)
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Scald the milk in a saucepan by heating to a gentle boil, then immediately reduce heat to low.
2. Add all remaining ingredients and beat together with a whisk.
3. Pour into a mug and serve immediately.
   

CAFE MOCHA

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 oz. double-strength coffee
• 3 tbsp. dark chocolate chips
• 1 tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder
• 1/2 cup milk

RECIPE:

1. In a small saucepan, combine milk, chocolate chips and cocoa powder. Heat over a medium flame, stirring constantly with a wooden or plastic spoon. Do not allow to boil.
2. Pour the chocolate mixture into a mug. Using a small whisk or electric frother, foam the milk mixture slightly.
3. Add the coffee to the chocolate and serve immediately.
   

Chicken with 42 Cloves of Garlic

When my brother in law gave me a recipe for 'Chicken with Forty Cloves of Garlic,' I was more than a little skeptical. It turns out that when you cook chicken with unpeeled garlic, the chicken is not garlicky at all; rather, the garlic adopts the flavor of the chicken. The soft, schmaltzy garlic cloves can then be spread on matzo.

As for the number of cloves: my lucky number is 42. (The reason is not The Hitchhiker's Guide; it's even nerdier). As such, I couldn't resist adjusting this recipe to that number. Again, the proportions are not that sensitive because the garlic does not actually impart a strong flavor.

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 lbs. chicken pieces, skin on
• 2 large onions, chopped
• 1 apple, peeled, cored and chopped
• 42 cloves of garlic
• 1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped
  
• 1 tsp. dried tarragon
• 1/2 cup semi-dry red cooking wine
• 1/2 tsp. nutmeg
  
• Salt and pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS:

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
   
2. In a four quart casserole, combine the chopped onions, apples, parsley and tarragon.
3. Put down a layer of chicken, nestling garlic cloves in between the pieces. Repeat until all of the garlic and chicken has been placed.
4. Combine the wine, nutmeg, salt and pepper in a jar or container and shake to combine. Drizzle over the chicken.
5. Cover the casserole and bake for 1 1/2 hours or until juice runs golden from chicken when poked with a fork.

PAIRINGS: This dish is heavily aromatic yet delicately flavored, with mild sweetness and soft textures. I recommend a semi-dry white with just enough structure to balance the stewed vegetables.

Ashkenazi Charoset

During the Passover holiday, when Jews tell the story of the biblical Exodus from Egypt, one of the ritual foods we eat is a paste called charoseth. Consisting of sweet fruit, nuts and wine, charoseth symbolizes the mortar which the ancient Israelites were said to have used during their enslavement to the Pharaoh.

Whereas Ashkenazi Jews tend to eat coarse, moist charoseth made from fresh fruit such as apples, Sephardic Jews prefer a smooth concoction made primarily from dried fruits. For a Sephardic charoset, see the 'Fig and Banana Paste' recipe below.

The most basic recipe for Ashkenazi charoset is to combine 2 parts chopped apples with 1 part chopped almonds or walnuts, then add about 1 tbsp. extra sweet red wine and 1/2 tsp. cinnamon for every apple used.

Here I have used some dried fruit, which was an action motivated out of desperation as I ran out of walnuts and had added too much cinnamon. But the results were good.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 crisp apples (such as Fuji or Gala), peeled and cored
  
• 3/4 cup walnuts
  
• 3/4 cup black raisins
  
• 6 black mission figs
• 1 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice
• 2 tbsp. honey
  
• 1/4 cup extra sweet red wine
  
• 1/2 tsp. ground cloves

RECIPE:

1. Chop the apples with the sharpest chopping knife you have (to prevent bruising) and immediately combine with lemon juice in a bowl.
2. Chop the walnuts by hand or in a food processor into 1/4" pieces. When chopping hard foods by hand, make sure that you cut with the rear of the blade (closest to your hand) while steadying the knife from the front with your off hand. This will keep the food from flying off the cutting board.
3. Chop the raisins and figs in the same fashion.
4. Combine all ingredients.

Serve within a few hours. It will still be delicious for a couple of days, but it will discolor and grow less crisp as time goes on.

Deviled Eggs

If you must serve boiled eggs, you might as well make them interesting. (Why anyone would serve boiled eggs outside of a religious ritual is entirely beyond me.)

Since aioli contains raw egg yolk, it is important to serve the deviled eggs on the same day that you make the aioli and make sure that you keep the eggs refrigerated until ready to serve.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 dozen eggs
• 3 tbsp. horseradish aioli (see below)
• 1 tbsp. spicy mustard
  
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice
• 3 tbsp. chopped fresh parsely
• Salt to taste

DIRECTIONS:

1. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. To this, add all of the eggs and allow to steep for 13 minutes. Remove from hot water and immediately steep in ice water for several minutes.
2. Remove the shells, being careful not to damage the egg in the process.
3. With a sharp knife, cut each egg in half. Remove the hard-boiled yolk to a bowl; reserve the whites.
4. Combine the yolks with all remaining ingredients, pressing down with the back of a fork.
5. Put the filling into a resealable bag. Cut one corner off the bag at a 30 degree angle, creating an aperture a little narrower than the yolk-sized hole in an egg white.
6. Squeeze filling from bag into each egg with a circular motion. Smooth gently if necessary.

Sprinkle with paprika and garnish with additional parsely. Serve on the same day.

Fig and Banana Paste

This rich, smooth fruit and nut butter is one of the most attractive toppings for crackers or bread that I've ever tasted. It is a dark, intense paste with the consistency of peanut butter and a rich, aromatic body. Top with a bit of goat cheese on toasted baguette for a formidable hors d'oeuvre.

I originally posted it as a Sephardic charoseth recipe, and indeed it is based on one, but I simply felt it was unfair to limit it to that role.

INGREDIENTS:

• 20 black mission figs
• 1/4 cup raisins (dark or golden)
• 1 banana
  
• 1/4 cup very sweet red wine
  
• 3 tbsp. honey
• 3/4 cup walnuts
• 3/4 cup almonds (chopped, slivered or sliced)
  
• 1 tsp. fresh ginger
• 1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
• 1 tsp. nutmeg
• 1 tsp. allspice
• 1 tsp. cloves
• 1 fresh jalapeño, stem and seeds removed (optional)
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Put the figs in a food processor and puree for about a minute. (You may want to hold onto the food processor for this.)
2. Add the banana, honey and wine and jalapeño to the food processor and continue to pulverize for another minute or two.
3. Add the nuts and spices and continue to process until smooth, which may take several minutes.

Refrigerate if preparing ahead of time. Serve at room temperature.

Horseradish Aioli

I really hate store-bought mayonnaise. I don't think I've ever bought a jar of it. The homemade stuff can be alright, though, as long as it has something going for it. This one does, and would make a good condiment to something that needs both richness and bite.

Use extra virgin olive oil if you like the strong taste that it gives. (I do.) For something less intense, use a milder variety of olive oil.

UPDATE 4/21/2008: Remember that garlic varies greatly in pungency. 3-5 cloves is meant to be emphatically garlicky. Adjust to tastes.

Thanks to eHow for the basic recipe I've used here.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 egg yolks
• 2/3 cup olive oil
• 4 tsp. spicy (brown) mustard
• 3-5 garlic cloves (about 1 - 1 1/2 tbsp. chopped)
• 1 tbsp. chopped horseradish
• 1 tbsp. lemon juice
• 1/4. tsp. salt
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Put the egg yolks, garlic, mustard and horseradish into the blender. Run on low for about 1 minute.
2. With the blender still on low, remove the plastic stopper at the top of the blender and very gradually add the olive oil. If your blender doesn't have a stopper, shut off the blender, add a couple tablespoons of oil, put the cover back on and turn it back on. This should take 2-3 minutes at least.
3. Add the lemon juice and salt. Continue running the blender on low for another minute or until the contents develop a thick, foamy consistency.

Use wherever you might have used mayonnaise.

Fish Chowder

Raphael Pereira introduced me to the charms of salt cod, known in Portuguese as bacalao. Cod is the fish for which Cape Cod, Massachusetts gets its name, and has historically been abundant along the coast of New England and Nova Scotia. The fish is dried and preserved in salt, creating a commodity that could survive the journey back to Europe.

This chowder, based (loosely) on the one found here, is very typical of traditional New England food. Fish chowder and its more famous cousin, clam chowder, have been signatures of the Boston area for centuries.

Here I have tried to do it some justice, creating a hearty stew in the old New England fashion.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb. salt cod (bacalao), soaked for 8-12 hours in ice water
• 3-4 potatoes, peeled and diced (about 3 cups)
• 2-3 medium carrots, peeled and diced (about 1 cup)
• 1 medium onion, chopped
  
• 1 can (12 oz.) evaporated milk
• 1/2 lb bacon or salt pork, minced
  
• 3 cups milk
• Black pepper to taste
  

DIRECTIONS:

1. Bring some water to a boil. Blanch the soaked ("freshened") cod by immersing it in the boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then immediately immersing it in ice cold water. Remove from water and set aside.
   
2. Cook minced bacon over medium-high heat for several minutes until it begins to cast off a good deal of fat. Add the chopped onions and sauté until tender.
3. Add the carrots, potatoes and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook covered until vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally to prevent the bottom from burning.
4. Break the fish into large-ish chunks (it will continue to fall apart on its own).
   
5. Add fish, milk and evaporated milk to the vegetables. Cook gently over medium-high heat for several minutes. Do not boil or the milk will curdle.

Serve immediately.