Sunday, February 24, 2008

Cholent

On the Jewish sabbath, it is not permitted to create or adjust a fire. This has been extended to all heat sources, making it essential to create foods that can keep cooking all through the sabbath day. Cholent is a sabbath stew so tightly bound to the old-world weekly sabbath rituals that one might reasonably call it a ritual of its own. My version uses a hell of a lot more onions than would typically be found because, hey, onions are fantastic.

Since you are blasting the meat for so incredibly long, it's especially important to use a rich, marbled cut that won't dry out as you cook it. With beef, I prefer flanken (also known as 'boneless short ribs'), but you could also use brisket. Lamb would work very nicely!

Based on impressions from this beautiful essay on cholent.

INGREDIENTS:
  • 3 medium Spanish onions (about 1.5 - 2 lbs), sliced
  • 10 oz. Crimini or Baby Bella mushrooms, scrubbed and sliced
  • 4-6 whole cloves of garlic, peeled
  • 1 1/4 cup dry beans (any), rinsed and soaked overnight
  • 3/4 cup pearl barley
  • 1 1/2 lbs. red bliss potatoes, skin on, cut into large chunks
  • 3-4 carrots, washed and cut into large chunks
  • 6 cups chicken broth
  • 2 lbs. beef brisket or flanken (boneless short rib)
  • 1 tbsp. sugar
  • 2 tbsp. paprika
  • Salt and pepper
  • Several whole raw eggs (optional), rinsed
  • Olive oil for sautéing
DIRECTIONS:
  1. Heat a large skillet to medium-high heat. Once hot, add olive oil and allow to warm.
  2. Add the onions and mushrooms along with the sugar. Sauté, turning frequently with a spatula, until beginning to caramelize: about 25-30 minutes.
  3. Add the whole garlic cloves and continue to sauté about 5 minutes more. (The garlic will still be white.)
  4. In a crockpot, thoroughly combine the caramelized vegetables, the beans, barley, carrots, potatoes and paprika.
  5. Bury the beef in this mixture.
  6. If you have room in the crockpot, bury some eggs in the mixture at this point as well. The egg white will turn an incredible caramel color.
  7. Cook in the crock pot on low for a minimum of 8 hours, and as many as 18.
Serve at any time after the first 8 hours. Since you can't shut off the heat on shabbos, it's not uncommon to see people start eating the cholent after 8 or 12 hours, and then again several hours later.

PAIRINGS: I know that beef and beans and barley all fairly scream out 'red wine' (or dark beer), but I find that the entire dish has a sufficiently dark and brooding character that I really crave something a little bit sweet and fruity. Sweet white wines like Gewürztraminer and Riesling come easily to mind, or even a tawny port. A hard cider would also do the job.

Traditionally, people drink hard liquor (often scotch and vodka) on shabbos, although I've never been too crazy for that.

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